Eating Her 'Art' Out

A Close Encounters Interview by Sacha de Frisching

For some she is the food diva of Nassau. To others she is the fundraiser who charitably donates her cooking talents, while at home, on the compound, she cooks regularly for 24, never tiring of it: "I can cook every day because it's my passion as well as my profession."

ALEXANDRA MAILLIS-LYNCH has been cooking her, way to the top since the age of five. Raised in Nassau, she attended Queen's College and then read politics at the University of Sussex, England. "I was supposed to be a criminal lawyer but I chose to be a mother instead. In the catering business," she explains, "one can be both". So, in 1989, Alexandra launched into an ongoing love, affair with other people's parties. During the 14 years she has been in business, her high-calorie enthusiasm has allowed her to harness a flourishing catering and event management company, simply called Alexandra.

She was the fourth child and baby of a closely knit family, often travelling with her father, who was president of an airline, to a great many different countries and cities. The desire and need to make people feel welcome is possibly indicative of her effervescent Greek heritage and sound home-cooking roots. Many of her happiest memories are associated with food, so it is little wonder that her art and soul are the main ingredients in everything she does today.

"I am an amateur cook," she ponders, "and that will always make me sad because the international male cooking world is very elitist ... but, by the same token, this mise-en-scene has allowed me the freedom to "break all the rules and accepted guidelines."

Her culinary genes tell her instantly when something is delectable, bland or how it can be improved. Striving for perfection, at the risk of being unprofitable, she claims that either you maintain a totally exclusive profile or, if you choose to offer good food to people who can't afford it, you soon come to realise that they do not appreciate its worth. Charity work can be dangerous here.

She points out that a distinction has to be drawn between a caterer and a chef. The caterer must be armed with flexible skills, cooking each time in a new kitchen, in unfamiliar territory, and often for large numbers. A chef, on the other hand, tells you when you are going to eat, performs in his permanent environment and prepares meals on a one-on-one basis.

Ultimately, Alexandra is a food stylist, with her own personal collection of flavours and zests. "I don't want to rub shoulders with my clients, I simply want to serve," she says.

Hospitality, she maintains, is the vehicle that keeps society in touch. Each party becomes a personal milestone and an adventure she relishes. Her business is not about bangers and cash - it's about sharing a meal, at the peak of delicious, with good friends.

What ingredients have made you successful?

It has to be my sheer boldness. I threw 'rules' out of the window and decided to cook exactly what I wanted to eat. I was not about to copy any restaurants or chefs. All I wanted was interesting and original food.

Possibly, it shocked people into taking notice right away. Besides which, I am honest with my capacities and have a sincere love of what I do.

What do you like most about yourself?

I am a survivor and have learnt to be one the hard way. I have the ability to get on and do something under all circumstances, good or bad.

And least?

My nasty temper. I am a Sagittarius, born November 30, the same day as Winston Churchill, someone else notorious for his temper.

A kitchen utensil you could live without, and a cookbook you cherish?

That's easy - my garlic crusher. At the beginning, I was influenced by Martha Stewart's first book, Entertaining. The reason I liked it so much is that she broke rules as well. She epitomised the freedom to invent outside of the male cooking world. She was a pioneer in creating beauty from natural garnishes, etc, as opposed to traditional ones.

Could you see yourself writing a cookbook in the future?

I have always said that I would not. However, recently I have been thinking about 'hospitality': that lost, yet so important trait in our society. Hospitality is basically offering our own self-warmth to others. In today's high stress world, where we have no longer a neighbourhood feeling, I would like to see the art of making your guests feel welcome come back to the forefront. This is something I think I would like to write about.

How would you like to see the Bahamian diet improve?

I would like to see us be more adventurous and less afraid of the things we don't know. We cannot only restrict ourselves to the food we recognise. We need to be more daring with our taste buds and not so scornful of other people's diets. I remember so well how much I was jeered at when I brought my Greek dolmadas to school. This attitude, which probably persists today, needs to change.

How do you recharge your batteries?

I retreat to family time. We all live on one big property and my roots are there. For my creative batteries, I have to take a long break after each season to allow new ideas to percolate.

Use just one word to describe yourself?

Dogmatic.

Are you sensitive to criticism?

It depends where it is coming from. If it is a genuine criticism I relish it. My catering business has grown through constructive criticism. Food, after all, is such a personal and objective thing, so that when I listen to other people's comments I try to match it against my own standards. Deep down I know when a flavour is right but, inevitably, there is room for error and I take my clients' opinions very seriously at all levels.

Your professional ambitions? One day I would like to be able to say that I am the best in the Bahamas. At this point, I have no ambition to go further afield, like the US for example. I am a Bahamian, raised here with a family of three children and one on the way. I want my life to stay with them.

Where did your love affair with parties stem from?

My own family numbers 24.

We sort of live on a compound with an intertwined existence, entertaining, socialising and connecting with friends. I have always heen very much involved in helping out with school and church catering, so rather than just spending the money I decided to try to earn some, doing what I know best.

Do you think your childhood prepared you well for life?

Absolutely. I was raised by two very distinct parents. My Greek father had been brought up by my grandmother, and he raised my sister and myself in the same way and with the same rules as my brothers. My mother instilled life disciplines in me ... the important things, which carry you over time and stand you in good stead.

Your first break?

It was Nicole Dupuy who was the first person to risk a big party for me, and it was there that I got to know Sidney Francis. He has since become my right hand ... virtually my right everything. He taught me the service side of the business, so that I was able to match the food side with first class service. He is someone who cares about the people he serves. We make a good team and he was instrumental in helping the business end up where it is today.

... and an hour of ecstasy?

The gala fundraiser Casablanca, organised by Mrs Dingman. She hired me as the general coordinator and sent me to New York for a week to train in Moroccan cuisine. I am proud of the role I played in it and it was the highlight of my professional career. I am also proud as to how many Bahamians worked on the team, helping to pull it off. That evening I realised that the sky is the limit and it was wonderful.

Do you like to eat as well as cook?

I love eating as much as I love cooking. I adore Vietnamese anything where there is a combination of French and Oriental. Greek food is my comfort food. I love garlic in just about everything, although the one thing I can't abide or taste is chicken livers, Jewish style.

Romance in food, does it exist?

Of course. Food is such a passion anyway. Cooking for someone you love is a way of expressing your feelings. It is a gift from yourself and is tied up with love, sex and romance. It's exciting because all your senses come ·alive when you eat and share food.

Fast food versus healthy food for children?

From the very beginning I have always made my children eat what I eat and what is on the table. As a result, my three boys definitely have a sense of what is good tasting. Of course they eat fast-food ... probably more as after-school desperation. They truly enjoy a table full of food and relish the diversity of our menus, which are planned for the week ahead of time.

How hard is it to find professional service providers?

I must be very lucky because I have managed to convey my enthusiasm to those who work in a team around me. My subcontractors know that they have to do their absolute best and, while there may be the occasional slip-up, there is an inherent warmth-and politeness. I pay my staff extremely well, which means I can also demand extremely high standards.

Bahamian food. How do you spice it up?

There is no such thing as bad Bahamian food. Peas 'n Rice can be delicious. If it is not, it is because someone has cheated you with the ingredients. Good peas 'n rice may not be considered a gourmet dish but made with pork fat, salt beef, thyme, goat and black pepper, it's delicious comfort food. So, basicalIy, if it is not too tasty it has been insincerely cooked.

What would be a change for the better in the Bahamas?

A general change of attitude in protectionism. It's OK to be proud but, at the same time, serve your country properly. I would like to believe and have tried, as an amateur, to reach the top of my profession. I truly do not mind if foreign chefs come to our country. On the contrary, it is good for us to have competitive measures set. I am not afraid of higher standards, I am only afraid of unfair standards.

What aren't you good at? Sports. I am not musical and, probably, am a bit of a doom and gloomer, although l am working on that.

How important a role does presentation and colour play?

Not as important, ultimately, as food 'taste'. One of my pet peeves is when food looks divine and tastes crappy. It is this trend that made me break rules in the first place.

You can have an immaculate looking plate and the food is cold, tasteless or undercooked. In the end, you remember only the taste of the dish. Of course, there needs to be a balance of colour and textures, but when you bite into that cake and say it's 'heaven' ... that's what you remember.

Tell us more about the decorating aspect.

For those of us who do not travel, including a theme makes the evening more exotic. Themes such as North African, Russian or Lebanese serve much better in correct surroundings and context. So, when a little more money is spent on the decor, it gives the evening that extra cachet.

What, for you, is job satisfaction?

When I think that the food has come out on time, tasty and looks beautiful. A contented hostess is important but not predominant, because I know in my heart of hearts when I have done a good job.

Do weddings give you a migraine?

I am not really in the wedding market and I don't enjoy it. It is big business and a profitable one, but I haven't the patience to cope with silly brides and their exaggerated fantasies.

What procedures do you follow with a new client?

When we meet for the first time, I usually come with a seven-page questionnaire to get a clear picture of all the facts, wishes, expectations and budget. I then usually suggest one menu and see what feedback I get from that. The clients often choose their own wine, or else rely heavily on the wine experts at Bristol Cellars.

Why are your services so expensive?

I always hear this comment but let's face it, food and service costs are high. I give back to my clients and that's why I have so many repeat customers. My cardinal rule is not to get rich on someone else's back. I pay my waiters well, never run out of food, cut no corners and, even though no one believes me, I don't really make a lot of money.

Do you think one is bom with a culinary talent or is it acquired?

A bit of both. We are all born with leanings towards certain talents, but whether you tap into them is a personal choice.

Having an innate ability to taste is definitely something you are born with. I know I can remember a taste and, therefore, can duplicate it.

Is cooking an art or a science? It is not a science, even though that is where the cooking world has gone. It should be an art form. Fast food is a science whereas Julia Child or Wolfgang Puck, people without traditional methodology, are culinary artists.

How do you manage to get all your exotic ingredients?

It is as simple as calling Bahamas Food Services or European Food Exports. Sometimes it is the luck of the draw, and notice is helpful. Teresa Kemp, for example, has a wonderful herb garden and I grow my own lemon grass. I stock up when I travel and maintain a 30ft by 30ft walk-in cooler full of ingredients.

What happens to all the leftovers?

They are supposed to stay with the client unless I am requested to remove everything. Then it either goes into my cooler, or I give some to the staff and waiters. In my early days I used to cook too much because it was so difficult to judge quantities exactly and predict how much a crowd will eat.

Nowadays, despite the protestations of clients that they are on a diet, I am finding that everyone is eating more.

The Tribune November 18, 2002