Perfect Combination:
Lynch And August Moon
What better way to get the new year off right, than with dining at another one of my top five restaurant picks of 2008, so it was off to the newly-expanded August Moon Cafe, in the shopping plaza outside the Lyford Cay gates, and of course, Alexandra Lynch, the owner of this homey establishment did not disappoint.
August Moon was hosting a special five-course wine and food tasting featuring Tensley wines, which are imported into the country by Reuben Fox, proprietor of Wine Bar Imports, so as she does every night, Lynch pulled out all the stops.
Patrons were able to indulge in Bacalao Fritters and Spicy Crab au Gratin Wontons with Honey Cilantro Drizzle for the passed hors d'oeuvres. Actually, it was my first encounter with Bacalao Fritters which is essentially salted cod fritters. I found the fritters tasty as fritters go, I can give or take when it comes to fritters, but the Spicy Crab au Gratin Wontons with Honey Cilanto Drizzle - wow - they just blew me away. The wonton was fried crispy, and filled with a delicious filling. The hint of sweetness from the sauce accented the savory, spiced filling, and crispness of the wonton, which made for a spectacular appetizer. Of course, the affair was for Lynch to pair the food with the perfect wine from the Tensely Winery, and diners sipped on the Lea 2007 Syrah Rose with their hors d'oeuvres.
Fascinated with the wonton, I was eager to see what Lynch would produce next. She started off with a Pumpkin Lobster Bisque, which was slightly sweet and nice and thick. It was served with the Tensley 2007 Blanc, to offset the sweetness of the bisque.
For the second tasting, I eagerly looked forward to the Shrimp with Garlic, Citrus and Butter. That was served atop a salad of julienned tropical vegetables. It turned out to be a a cleaner flavor than I had expected and seemed to act almost as a palate cleanser. That was served with the Tensley 2007 Blanc.
The star of the evening for me was the Duck Diablo with Mango Jalapeno Glaze. The marriage of ingredients saw smoked duck breast rolled and wrapped in bacon, and held together with a skewer. They were presented on the tips of skewers, standing upright in a base of carambola (star fruit) and drizzled with Mango Jalapeno Glaze. Talk about a taste of heaven. Paired with the Tensley 2007, it brought to mind the lyrics to the 1998 Stacy Lattisaw hit 'Perfect Combination', because it was indeed a perfect combination.
Next on the menu was the Oxtail with Rioja, served with the Tensley 2007 Syrah. As far as oxtails go, the flavor does not change much from dish to dish, no matter how it's prepared, but what Lynch was able to put on the table, was a thick stew, which went well with the Syrah.
To end the evening on a high note, she served up a Bittersweet Chocolate Tart with Tropical Fruit Macedoine, with the Tensley 2005 Late Harvest Syrah, and that did it. I threw in my fork, not because I was disappointed, but because Lynch had put out one amazing plate after another amazing plate, and the dessert was just the clincher.
And don't let the fancy words Tropical Fruit Macedoine fool you either, because the dessert is as simple as they come. To make it you just plate whatever fruit you want, and drizzle it with a syrup, made of the zest from citrus fruits with sugar and spices, which you reduce to a thick syrup. But in true Lynch fashion, her presentation made all the difference. All hail Alexandra Lynch.
While I enjoyed the Spicy Crab au Gratin Wontons with Honey Cilantro Drizzle, the Duck Diablo with Mango Jalapeno Glaze and the Bittersweet Chocolate Tart with Tropical Fruit Macedoine the most, I really couldn't find fault with anything that she served. And if there was one comment that seemed to be constant during the evening, and that was that Alexandra Lynch got it. She understood the flavors and notes of the wine, with her food pairings, and hit them perfectly.
By Shavaughn Moss
The Nassau Guardian
January 28, 2009